Before inspecting it, give your bike a thorough wash with soap and water. Ideally, use a long-handled, soft bristle brush that you can pick up in any hardware store, a bucket of soapy water, and your garden hose. Best to avoid high pressure nozzles (no power washers) especially around the shocks or bearings — just use a standard garden hose nozzle set for a gentle spray (higher pressure setting is fine for the tires.)

**Overall Inspection**

Start by giving the entire bike a thorough "once-over" — visually inspect the entire bike, looking for anything unusual, like wear spots, scrapes, scratches, or leaks.

Check for cracking and dry rot. An improper storage location (e.g. too close to a heater) can cause tires to degrade over the winter. Fill to standard air pressure, leave over-night. Check again 24 hours later to see if they hold pressure. For tubeless setups: Replenish sealant! Sealant needs to be replenished routinely during the season (in arid conditions, like here in Moab, probably every couple months or even more often.) This is especially true at the beginning of the season. You may be able to top off your sealant without a compressor, but depending on your tires and rims, a compressor may be required. _Most people will need to take their bike to a shop to top off the sealant._

Check wheel alignment. You should not be able to notice any discernable movement side-to-side during rotation. Check wheel bearings for play. When gripping the tire firmly on opposite sides of the wheel and torqueing it back and forth, you should not be able feel any bearing movement. If the bearings have any play in them, take it to your bike shop.

Spin the wheel, checking the rotor to see if you can detect any wobble or movement as it spins through the calipers. There should be zero movement. If any is detected, you can carefully bend it true again, or take it to a shop if there is any. Remove the wheel. _Be careful to avoid depressing your brake levers while the wheels are removed_ (doing so may result in the pistons moving into the gap usually occupied by the rotor.) Check the brake pads — if worn more than 50%, replace them.

Check the front fork stanchions for scratches, or signs of oil leaks. Do the same for the rear shock and the seat dropper post. The oil seals do dry out – if you suspect this to be the case, take your bike to a shop for repairs. Do a "sit test" — get on the bike and quickly sit or stand on the pedals in order to depress the shocks while watching carefully both the compression and rebound damping rates (notice how quickly the shocks leave and then return to their normal resting position.) Adjust as necessary. Check this Bike Radar article for a detailed explanation on shock adjustments.

Check your brake, shifting and seat dropper cables. Look for signs of crimping or bending, especially on the seat dropper line where it enters the seat tube, if applicable. Check the shifter controls to make sure that each index click results in correct movement of the chain to the next gear on the cassette. If there is hesitation or skipping, adjust as necessary.

Carefully inspect the frame, looking for scratches, gouges, dents or cracks that may have escaped notice last season. If you find anything that looks potentially serious, take it to your local shop for an assessment. Use a wrench to tighten each and every bolt (preferably a torque wrench, applying the specified foot-pounds for each bolt.) Check the headset— when lifted off the ground, the front wheel and handlebars should turn freely. If they stick, the grease may be old and require replacement, or the bearings may need adjustment.

Clean your chain by running it through a clean rag, then, lube it with fresh chain lube, wiping away the excess. Inspect the chain rings and cassette for any bent teeth. Check the chain for stiff or bent links.

Your personal gear is also important. Check your shoes for wear, your helmet shell for cracks, and the chin straps for signs of stress. This is a great time to clean your back pack of old cliff bar wrappers. Clean and check your hydration system, refresh any first aid or bike repair supplies you carry. END ORIGINAL CONTENT -->

Pre-season Tune-Up Tips

Before your first ride of the season, every mountain bike needs a thorough inspection and tune-up — even if it’s been ridden through winter. At minimum, you should wash your bike, check tires and sealant, inspect brake pads and rotors, and clean and lube the drivetrain. A proper pre-season tune-up takes about 1 to 2 hours at home, or you can drop it at a shop for a professional service. Our Rim Tours guides tune every bike in the fleet before each season, and this is the checklist they follow.

Wash Your Bike First

Before you can properly inspect anything, give your bike a thorough wash with soap and water. Use a long-handled soft-bristle brush (available at any hardware store), a bucket of soapy water, and a standard garden hose.

Important: Avoid high-pressure nozzles and power washers, especially around shocks, bearings, and pivot points. High-pressure water forces past seals and washes out grease. A gentle spray setting is all you need — save the higher pressure for the tires only.

Overall Visual Inspection

Start with a slow, thorough once-over of the entire bike. Look for anything unusual: wear spots, deep scratches, scrapes, dents, oil leaks from suspension components, or any damage that might have escaped notice at the end of last season. Pay special attention to the frame around welds, the head tube junction, and the chainstay/seatstay area near the rear axle.

Tires and Wheels

Tires:

Check for cracking, dry rot, and worn knobs. Improper storage (too close to a heater, direct sunlight) can degrade rubber over winter.
Inflate to standard pressure and leave overnight. Check again 24 hours later to confirm they hold pressure.

Tubeless sealant: This is the number one thing riders forget. Sealant dries out and must be replenished routinely — in arid conditions like Moab, every couple of months or even more frequently. At the start of the season, your sealant is almost certainly dried up. You may be able to top off without a compressor, but depending on your tire/rim combination, a compressor may be required. Most riders will need a shop for this.

Wheels:

Check wheel alignment — there should be no discernible side-to-side movement during rotation.
Check wheel bearings for play. Grip the tire firmly on opposite sides and torque back and forth. Any detectable bearing movement means a shop visit.

Brakes

Your brakes are the most critical safety system on the bike:

Rotor check: Spin each wheel and watch the rotor as it passes through the caliper. There should be zero wobble or movement. Minor bends can be carefully trued by hand; anything significant should go to a shop.
Pad inspection: Remove each wheel and check brake pad thickness. If worn more than 50%, replace them. Pads are cheap; your safety is not.
Critical warning: Never squeeze your brake levers while the wheels are removed. This can cause the pistons to advance into the gap normally occupied by the rotor, which requires a reset to fix.

Suspension

Stanchion inspection: Check the front fork stanchions (the shiny upper tubes) for scratches or signs of oil leaks. Do the same for the rear shock body and the seat dropper post. Oil seals dry out over time — if you see oil weeping, take it to a shop.
Sit test: Get on the bike and quickly load the suspension by sitting hard on the saddle and standing on the pedals. Watch both the compression rate (how fast it sinks) and the rebound rate (how fast it returns). Adjust as needed — too-fast rebound makes the bike buck; too-slow makes it pack down and feel dead.

Control Lines and Shifting

Cable inspection: Check brake, shifting, and seat dropper cables/hoses for crimping, bending, or wear — especially where the dropper line enters the seat tube.
Shifting test: Click through every gear on the cassette. Each index click should move the chain cleanly to the next cog with no hesitation, skipping, or ghost shifting. If adjustment is needed, start with the barrel adjuster before touching the limit screws.

Frame and Headset

Frame inspection: Look carefully for scratches, gouges, dents, or cracks that could indicate structural damage. Carbon frames are especially vulnerable to hidden damage — if anything looks suspicious, get it professionally assessed.
Bolt check: Tighten every bolt on the bike. Use a torque wrench if you have one, applying the manufacturer’s specified torque values. Over-tightening carbon components can cause catastrophic failure.
Headset: Lift the front wheel off the ground — handlebars should turn freely. If they stick, the grease may need replacing or the bearings need adjustment. Also check for play by applying the front brake and rocking the bike forward/back while holding the junction of the head tube and fork.

Drivetrain

Clean your chain by running it through a clean rag. Apply fresh chain lube (wet or dry, depending on your conditions) and wipe away the excess — a properly lubed chain should not look wet or drippy.
Inspect chainrings and cassette cogs for bent or shark-finned teeth, which indicate wear.
Check the chain for stiff or bent links by slowly backpedaling and watching each link pass through the rear derailleur.

Personal Gear

Don’t forget the gear that goes on you:

Shoes: Check soles for wear, especially cleat mounting areas
Helmet: Inspect the shell for cracks and the chin straps for signs of stress. Replace any helmet that’s taken a significant impact, even if it looks fine — the foam may be compromised
Hydration system: Clean thoroughly, check for mold in the reservoir and bite valve, and replace any cracked tubing
Pack: Empty it out, clean out old wrappers and debris, and refresh your first aid and bike repair supplies
Tools: Check your multi-tool, tire levers, spare tube, pump or CO2 cartridges

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a professional mountain bike tune-up cost?

A basic tune-up at most shops runs $75 to $150, covering shifting adjustment, brake adjustment, and drivetrain cleaning. A comprehensive overhaul — including suspension service, bearing replacement, and full brake bleed — can run $200 to $400+. If you’re planning a Moab mountain bike trip, it’s worth the investment before you arrive.

How often should I replace tubeless sealant?

Every 2 to 4 months during riding season, or whenever the sealant has dried out. In arid climates like Moab, sealant dries faster — plan on every 6 to 8 weeks. Always replenish before the first ride of the season.

Should I get my bike tuned before a guided tour?

If you’re bringing your own bike on a Rim Tours multi-day tour, absolutely. Have your bike professionally tuned and replace any worn parts before your trip. Our guides can handle minor adjustments and repairs on the trail, but starting with a well-maintained bike ensures the best experience. Rim Tours also rents high-quality full-suspension bikes if you prefer not to bring your own.

What is the most commonly overlooked pre-season maintenance item?

Tubeless sealant, without question. Riders forget that sealant is a consumable that dries out. Starting the season with dried-up sealant is asking for a flat on your first ride. The second most overlooked item is brake pad thickness — pads wear gradually, so it’s easy to not notice they’re down to the metal.

Can I do a pre-season tune-up myself, or should I go to a shop?

Most of the checklist above can be done at home with basic tools. The exceptions that typically require a shop visit are: suspension service (oil changes, seal replacement), tubeless sealant replenishment (if you don’t have a compressor), wheel truing, and hydraulic brake bleeding. If you’re not confident in your mechanical skills, a shop tune-up is money well spent.